As an artist, site visits are an important part of my practice, informing the images I create about a place with history, culture and local perspectives. Whether I am visiting a site for personal reasons or purely to create art, I love travel and I am lucky to have enjoyed some incredible adventures in New Zealand and overseas.
Rakiura, or Stewart Island, is a gem of New Zealand’s southernmost landscapes, offering a blend of untouched wilderness, abundant wildlife, and rich cultural history. I travelled here in February (Summer) 2024 for a four-day family holiday. Our group was made up of two couples in their 30s and two couples aged over 60; as well as 4 children between two and five years old. The purpose of ur trip was primarily to spend time together, while exploring the island.
If you are a planner like me, I hope the following tidbits will give you and idea of what to expect and prepare for.
Planning
While this might sound like I’m exaggerating the isolation of the island, for most of our trip, excluding the accommodation that we booked through AirBnB, we found booking activities and transport by phone was the easiest option. In most cases the information avliale online was limited but jump on the blower and most people were happy to talk us through bookings and answer any questions.
Transport
Most visitors travel by ferry from Bluff or take a short flight from Invercargill. We chose the ferry. The ferry crossing has a reputation for being rough. I recommend preparing for this, especially if you are prone to seasickness or feel nervous around water. When you arrive at the ferry terminal you will see signs for dropping off luggage and parking your vehicle. We were not sure what parking would be permitted so it was a relief to find there was secure parking provided at the harbour.
Before you arrive, I recommend looking into options for reaching your accommodation. Your hosts will be able to provide advice and may be able to arrange collection from the ferry terminal for you with some notice. Be prepared to walk if you need to and wear comfortable clothing for changing weather.
Clothing
Even in Summer, Rakiura’s climate is unpredictable. Layers are your best friend here. Include waterproof gear, sturdy hiking boots or walking shoes and warm clothing, especially if you plan to explore the island’s trails or go out on the water.
Don’t forget sunscreen and insect repellent, sandflies can be persistent.
Food and dining
With a permanent population of just 400 people, the island boasts only a handful of eateries. These all offered, from what we experienced, good quality food, service and hospitality. Hours of operation seem to be seasonal and in some cases, weather dependent, so be prepared to change dinner plans at the last minute.
I recommend getting groceries on the mainland before heading over. The baggage allowance on the ferry is fairly generous for this reason. That said, there is a small supermarket on the island so do not panic if you run short or forget something essential.
During of four days, we enjoyed fish and chip lunch at the Kai Kart, coffees from The Snuggery and The Old Butchershp Cafe; and diner at the South Sea Hotel. Be prepared to eat fish most if not every meal! If thats not your thing, the cafes have some bakery options.
Throughout our trip we sed Eftpos to pay. If you are like me and use your phone to pay for everything, I would recommend bringing a card.
Activities
The island’s main draw is its natural beauty. While many people travel here for the Rakiura National Park and Ulva Island, we were slightly limited by the weather and toddlers in tow.
My sister-in-law arranged a group fishing trip for 6 of us adults and I would highly recommend this, whether you are a seasoned fisherman or complete novice. We were hosted by Leask Bay Charters who not only ensured we all caught a decent haul of fish - trailing different spots until we hit gold, our host also gutted the fish for us; and cooked our group a meal of mussels, crayfish and cod onboard. We enjoyed a tour around the bays, giving us a chance to view parts of island in ways we never would of reached by land. While the outing wasn’t cheap at $150 a head, it was well worth it for the experience and we each left with enough food for several dinners.
One days when the weather was clearer, we enjoyed walks around Oban, the Museum, Pub and local playgrounds. If like us, you are visiting for a holiday and not the serious hiking, I would recommend bringing some activities for raiiny days such as a book or small game. Internet can be dicey so I also recommended downloading music podcasts or shows in advance.
Engaging with nature
Rakiura’s charm lies in its slow pace and peaceful surroundings. Disconnect from the hustle of daily life, immerse yourself in nature, and enjoy the island’s serene beauty.
Summer (December to February) offers warmer temperatures and longer daylight hours, perfect for hiking and exploring. For birdwatchers, spring and early summer are ideal. If you’re keen on the Aurora Australis, winter provides the best chance to see the southern lights.
Souvenirs
The island’s museum is a well curated and interested visit. This would usually be my pick of locations for souvenirs and certainly, there are some great items. I will note that as a policy, the museum does not stock any locally made products, instead using nationwide gift store suppliers. Amongst these are some beautiful items but especially if you are travelling within New Zealand you might be a little disappointed.
For uniquely Rakiura items, Glowing Skys is a renown clothing brand located in the heart of Oban. Think high quality merinos and hiking wear.
For smaller items, have a look at the The Old Butchershop Cafe or The Snuggery. The Snuggery has been experimenting with a small retail side and has briefly stoked my own artwork as part of this. My first part of the ongoing series, Inhabitants is inspired by Rakiura’s natural beauty and those living there. You can also find these in Invercargill, at Found My Way in Windsor. Oban Church has been a particular hit.